Island Hvar

The island is characterised by gentle winters, warm summers and many hours of sunshine, Gentle and moist winters (January Hvar has an average temperature of 8.4° C) have many advantages, long other things enabling winter tourism in Hvar. Maximum temperatures are never too high to render agriculture impossible (the highest recorded temperature of 37°C was reached in 1935).

The average annual air temperature is around 16.5° C, while autumns are warmer than springs, which prolongs the growing period.

Hvar has an annual average of 7.7 hours sunshine per day and 3.8 hours of cloud. (By comparison Dubrovnik has 7.0 hours of sun shine and 4.4 hours of cloud; Nice /South of France/ 7.2 and 4.2 respectively). A general belief in the health-giving effects of sunny regions led to the discovery of this "Adriatic Madeira" as early as the 19th century. It has the most hours of sunshine on the Adriatic coast, with as much as 2715 per year, and only small variations in temperature.

"The Hygienic Society" was founded in 1868, and the first health hotel was opened in 1889, while The Centre for Allergies of the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences was founded in 1965. Due to its climate, Hvar has a long tradition iin health tourism and tourism in general.

Geology and fauna of the Island

Hvar (68 km long), after Cres the longest Adriatic island, is also the fourth largest in area (300 sq. m). The longitudinal road which links the town of Hvar with Sućurje at the eastern end of the island is 84 km long. The high plateau between St. Nicholas hill (626 m) and Hum (603 m) which extends from Sv. Nedjelja to Jelsa and is partly under pine woods and partly under arable land is marked by distinctive beauty and a fresh climate. The flat part of the island between Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa is under vineyards which produce up to 50,000 hectoliters of wine per year.

The mountain chain running along the middle of the island divides it into north and south, with outstanding peaks such as: Cernica, Hum, Gvozd and Sveti Nikola (626m). The Samotorac valley around the spring of the Pitavski potok (a stream) and the Vratnik canyon are interesting beauty spots which have become accessible by the cutting of a tunnel near Zavala. The flooded valley of the Bay of Stan Grad and Ravnice extends from the ridge peninsula on the northern side of the western part (Kabal, 125m) and the main mountain-range. The layers of sand and loess are now under the sea.

The outer shapes of Hvar are formed by its geological structure: the island is an anticline bent towards the south, composed of Mesozoic limestone and dolomite, and it is discontinuous in its relief towards Pakleni otoci and Šćedro. Geological reconstruction shows that the sea level during the last glacial period (Wurm) was 96.4 m lower than it is nowadays, which means that Hvar was originally a mountain on the mainland (722m). Storms and dry, cold winds blew loess from what today is Hvar Channel unto Stan Grad Plain, which is today undergoing a swift process of erosion. On the edge of this plain, are the three main island bays and villages. This is the most fertile of all Adriatic plains.

Hvar is less well known for its stone than the neighbouring is lands of Brač and Korčula, or Trogir on the mainland. However, the so-called "Greek Cave" near Mikićevica where one can see traces of an ancient quarry, some well-known stone artefacts, the writings of travel writers who saw Hvar as "a town of marble", and a series of well-known names of stonemasons (not to mention some of the best Croatian modern sculptors) -all point to an almost forgotten tradition of the production of stone. There are records indicating that white limestone was exported to Berlin for the parliament building, government buildings and the palaces of the federal council.

The island is covered by Holm oak {Orno-Quercetum ilicis), Aleppo pines (Pinus halapensis Mill.) and black pines (Pinus nigra dalmatica). The islet of Šćedro is especially rich in various Mediterranean trees and plants. The deciduous oriental hornbeam (Carpinetum orientalis croaticum) appears on higher hills (around 400m). The island was practically bare for centuries due to the use of pine for torches while fishing. (4 cubic metres of pine tree per one light were used in every fishing expedition).

Wine, lavender and honey have long been the main peasants' produce in Hvar. Wine from Hvar and other Dalmatian areas were successfully exported to France and then Hungary from 1870 until 1894, when phylloxera devastated the majority of Dalmatian vine yards. Then, in the first decades of the 20th century large numbers of islanders emigrated to North and South America. People from Hvar became the pioneers of wine growing in California and still participate a great deal in the production of wine there.

In the 1880s the total production of rosemary oil on the island amounted to 20,000 kg. At the beginning of the 20th century, it was exported to Trieste and then bought by perfume factories in England, France, and Germany. The rosemary is gathered on sunny days, usually from June to the middle of August, or sometimes even the end of September. It is gathered from each area on a three-year rotational basis. Only the dry leaf is distilled, not the whole plant as in Spain.

History of the island Hvar

The name of the island is without doubt Greek in origin, from Pharos (lighthouse). From it the Romans derived the name Pharia. The Dalmatian Romans then derived from this Fara, and the newly settled Croats in the early Middle Ages changed this to Hvar, as the old Slavonic consonant f was subsumed by the consonant group hv. The Dalmatian Romans, under the influence of Croatian pronunciation in the medieval documents spelt the name as Quara or Quarra.

At the end of the 11th century the Italians called it Lesina, or in Venetian dialect Liesena or Liesna. This was derived from an old Croatian adjective meaning "forest", which actually corresponded to the appearance of the island at the time of the Neretljani. The eastern part of the island, Plame, has the shape of a cutting edge which gets narrower towards "the top of Hvar" and corresponds well to the medieval Venetian name Liesna which means "awl". This is what it looked like to the Venetian seamen who sailed past the island on their way to the Neretva Channel, near the massif of Krajina where threatening pirates were waiting in their lairs.

A number of other island place-names describe its original wooded appearance. For example, Veil and Mali Garibaldi are derived from the word "grab" (hornbeam); Gin (a name identical to that of the Polish port of Gymea) also indicates a wooded place; Vrbanja and Vrboska are derived from "vrba" (willow), and Vrisnik from "vrijes" (heather). In the 3rd century BC the Hellenistic poet Apollonius of Rhodes introduced the name "Piteyeia", which is probably de rived from "pitys" Greek for spruce, or even from an old Illyrian name for the village of Pitve.
The inscription recording the victory of the inhabitants of Pharos over the Jadasini and their allies, one of the oldest known inscriptions in Croatia, 4th C BC.

 


Map - island Hvar


island Hvar


island Hvar

 

 



Vrboska, number of Inhabitants: 523

Vrboska was developed in the 15th century in a deep wooded bay on the north side of the island and is situated on a narrow channel extending inland from a wide and well protected bay on the north ern coast of the island.

It is the "parent" settlement of Vrbanja, and the surrounding villages (Svirče, Vrisnik, Pitve) - "whose inhabitants wanted to fish pilchard" are in the vicinity.
"Šćiga" - the ebbing and flowing of the sea in winding backwater with its islet in the middle - indicates any change in the weather just like a barometer.

The first permanent inhabitants built picturesque bridge houses, small stone streets, and the church of St Mary below which a small port was formed dating from 1465. Its renaissance structure occupies a large site and is a unique specimen of its kind on the Adriatic. The paintings which decorated the church are temporarily kept in the other parish church in order to protect them against dampness. The roof structure of the church surrounded by a crenellated wall is a good vantage point for a breathtaking view towards the mountains in the south and towards the east and the open sea. The original memorial tablets within the church still survive. The graves, marked with beautiful baroque numbers, include also several graves of commoners. A grave in the apse bears the coat-of-arms of parson Petar Fabric from 1737 and the inscription NE DIFFERAS AMICE — HODIE MIHI CRAS TIBI (You won't be different, friend — Me today, you tomorrow).

The most enthusiastic promoter of the port building was Matija Ivanić, who owned a boat, and who was later to be the leader of that popular rebellion. Some inhabitants decided to secede from the parish of Vrbanje and built their own church of sv. Lovrinac. The church of St. Laurence (Sveti Lovrinc) was also built in the 15th c. but has been twice enlarged, — in the 16th and again in the 17th c. when it acquired its present baroque appearance and the beautiful baroque choir. So in the future the two groups of people gathered around two different churches.

Vrboska was badly damaged first by the Venetian fleet in 1510, in a reprisal against the plebeian rebels , and later in an attack by Uluz-Ali in 1571. Only Jelsa and Hektorović's Tvrdalj managed to defend themselves against this famous commander who was in charge of part of the Turkish fleet before the battle of Lepanto. The church of St Mary was soon after fortified, and represented a strong defence on the large area above the port. This church-fortress is an unique cultural and religious building built outside established precepts. The church of sv. Lovrinac was also reshaped obtaining its final appearance in the 17th century. It exhibits masterworks of the Venetian Renaissance and Baroque, and some more recent local paintings. The most significant is the polyptych on the high altar by Paolo Veronese (1528-1588), and the painting of Our Lady of the Rosary by Jacopo Bassano (1516-1592). There are also three paintings by the Croatian Celestin Medović (1859-1921) from Kuna on the peninsula of Pelješac.

The village offers an unusual sight on a karst island: houses rising on both shores of a channel spanned by several small bridges. In the channel itself, in the centre of the village, stands an islet (342 sq. m). A whole network of walking paths lead under the thick shade of pine-trees down to the swimming beaches. Beyond the channel the bay widens towards Jelsa in the south-east (40 min. away) and Glavica promontory in the north.

The oldest houses dating from the 15th c. are of Gothic style or have Gothic ornaments. Some of them still show traces of devastating fire, — a reminder of the fights during the popular uprising (1510—1514) and of the Turkish naval attack and devastation in August 1571.
The original development of the harbour began in 1465 due to the efforts of the popular leader and local ship owner Matija Ivanić, who kept a ship in Vrboska and built a house there in 1468 (on the southern shore of the channel).


Vrboska


Vrboska

 

 



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